Luxury brands are studying how to better respond to the business opportunities of Ramadan, while maintaining a respectful relationship with the holy month. Achieving the right balance requires advance planning. [What makes for a meaningful Ramadan campaign? - voguebusiness.com]
Ramadan, a holy month of abstinence observed by Muslims worldwide, holds special significance in the countries of the Gulf region. A peak season for shopping, it also presents an opportunity for international luxury brands. Ramadan capsule collections have become popular, but some have drawn criticism for playing into stereotypes. A more nuanced approach is needed, market experts say.
Ramadan’s start date is linked to the sighting of the moon over Mecca, which is expected to fall on 22 March this year. “It’s a time where Muslims worldwide practise fasting, patience, self-discipline, worship and gratitude — a time for prayer and good deeds as well as celebrating togetherness with friends and family,” says Amna Abbas, a fashion and beauty consultant for Euromonitor. She cites evidence of “burgeoning consumer demand” during Ramadan.
While Ramadan may be a season of modesty, it is also a season of dressing up. The breaking of the fast (iftar) and the meal taken before the sunrise (suhoor) tend to be a time of gatherings. The 29 to 30 days of Ramadan are followed by the Eid celebration, when, for luxury brands, the opportunities widen further.
The potential of Ramadan and Eid has been long recognised in Dubai by multi-brand footwear retailer Level Shoes, which stocks the likes of Prada, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Part of The Chalhoub Group — a leading distributor of luxury goods in the Middle East — Level Shoes sees Ramadan as a time to connect with loyal clients as well as its own teams, and was one of the first retail players to host suhoors. “In every culture, it is during the times of shared celebration that we most like to indulge and pamper ourselves. And, of course, we recognise that one of the most fulfilling ways to do this is to shop,” says managing director Elisa Bruno.
Thinking beyond the modest capsule
One of the first international brands to explore the potential of a Ramadan capsule collection was Dolce & Gabbana, which launched a debut modest collection in 2016. Since then, Ramadan collections have become more common. However, some commentators are concerned that these kinds of initiatives can potentially alienate customers at a time of the year of profound cultural and religious significance.
Rania Masri El Khatib, who worked with The Chalhoub Group before launching her own advisory company RMK collective, is wary of the trend: “I am personally tired of the lazy stereotypical campaigns over Ramadan. The customer is now aware of these commercial hacks.”
So, how should international luxury brands approach Ramadan? One element of marketing strategy that is being more widely explored centres on the inclusion of regional designers and creatives. Net-a-Porter has this year launched its eighth exclusive Ramadan collection. While the edit includes exclusives from labels such as Oscar de La Renta and Tom Ford, it also includes pieces from regional designers such as Sem Sem (founded by Egyptian born Abeer Shoukry-Al Otaiba) and Benchellal, the brand founded by Moroccan-Dutch designer Mohamed Benchellal.
Clothing is the top performing category, making up 60 per cent of Net-a-Porter’s total revenue for Ramadan last year; followed by shoes and bags, which accounted for 27 per cent, according to the company. Libby Page, market director at Net-a-Porter, says: “I personally love the mix of modern yet modest silhouettes with beautiful pops of colour [in the collection] — perfect for the upcoming holy month and Eid celebrations.”
The e-tailer ensures its edit always includes a strong representation of regional designers and has recently onboarded Dubai-based Dima Ayad, known for her size-inclusive take on fashion. Its commitment to working with regional talent is part of a larger strategy projected well beyond Ramadan.
Level Shoes starts early on planning its Ramadan edits and specials. “To create dedicated and relevant collections you really have to take the time to think about what your customer needs, at that given moment,” says Level Shoes’s Bruno, citing partnerships with Valentino, Saint Laurent, Malone Souliers and Aquazzura. Regional creative input is a core part of Level Shoes’s strategy: Emirati production house Ajzal has produced special packaging, while Emirati-founded sandal brand Laggar has a curated pop-up within the store this season.
Ramadan collections need to be launched well in advance of the start of Ramadan, a point perhaps under-appreciated by some luxury brands. RMK’s El Khatib says brands should recognise that consumers are thinking ahead: “Customers prepare for the holy month in advance. They prepare their homes, their needs ahead of the start of the month. This is because the focus during Ramadan is really for family and for reflections, not for shopping and for going out and showing off their belongings.”
A sensitive approach to Ramadan resonates with customers. Rani Ilmi, founder of Frame Publicity, with clients including Etro, Bally and Moschino, says, “We are encouraging our clients to step away from commercialisation of Ramadan and instead align with the month’s recognition of gratitude. [That’s about] gifting rather than [for example] asking them to attend suhoor, which takes them away from their families.” She cites the example of Piaget, which one year gave clients a carrom board — an indoor tabletop game popular in the region.
Cultural appreciation
Continuity matters. Dubai-based label Bambah has been working on Ramadan capsules with Farfetch for seven years, developing them into one of its top selling collections, according to Bambah creative director Maha Abdul Rasheed.
Long-term local collaborations have the potential to build momentum. Yasmin Al Mulla, influential creative director of Dubai-based label YNM Dubai, has collaborated with the likes of Christian Dior and Givenchy for Eid and Ramadan projects over the years. “There has been appreciation of all my collaborations, whether it’s the midkhan [incense burner] design I created for Christian Dior, the packaging I have created for Givenchy, the designs I made for Jimmy Choo, or the campaigns I worked on with Tiffany & Co.,” she says. For her own luxury designer label, Ramadan-related shopping accounts for 35 per cent of annual sales.
RMK’s El Khatib says international brands are working harder to get the tone right. “Luxury brands are really understanding the habits and needs during this holy month and find a meaningful way to be part of the conversation.”
Bottega Veneta won plaudits during Ramadan in 2022 for hosting The Square, a majlis (a cultural and social space) open for three nights in Dubai, designed by Lebanese architect and musician Carl Gerges. The space focused on sharing and togetherness, to reflect the values of the month for Muslims. It showcased film screenings, poetry readings and music by creative talents from the region.
Focus on quality over quantity, says YMN’s Al Mulla. She puts it simply: “Be more personal than commercial.”
